EXHIBIT SUPPLY DALE SIX
This page describes the restoration of a Exhibit Supply
Dale Six Shooter Gun Game
Above from the Arcade1 book
Richard Bueschel and Steve Gronowski
This page from Munves catalog
The game finally arrived . More
information will be following
I have started to restore the art used inside the game. The rider clip
art below is an example. There are 6 different riders on the "Ferris
Wheel", more on that later.
A few advertisements for the game in 1950
Here is the game before it was shipped
Ok, here it is a bit of a challenge.
The interior art needs to be re-created. The ferrous wheel target assy
seems frozen, and is rusted.
It is missing both the back access door and the front door. It is also
missing the 10 cent coin mechanism on the coin door, replaced by a
The ticket mechanism is also frozen, plus it lacks tickets.
The big one, the front art glass is cracked in half.
All of the above were known issues as purchased. There are some
issues caused by the shipping company.
The game was bounced around enough that the power transformer broke
free of the mounting board, in doing so struck the mirror and
It also struck the relay strip assy, and broke a few relays. Finally
step unit came free of the board as well (the large unit seen on the
The transformer itself was damaged in the process, I believe
There are also some cabinet issues, unknown if they were there before
shipping or not.
The photos below show some of the damage caused by the shipping company
Ok, let the fun begin.....
First, step was to remove the art glass and stabilize it. It was placed
on a piece of plywood. I have a plan for this and will get into that
Next, I removed the electronics board which contains all the components
of the game with the exception of 2 assemblies in the bottom
the assemblies located under the front gun area, which includes
the ticket mechanism.
(one additional component found eventually, more on this later)
I decided to make cabinet repairs first to stabilize the cabinet.
You'll notice that the front top trim has been removed. This is
necessary to remove the lighting/electronics board behind the front art
Normally that top trim is only removed to slide the art glass up, to
remove it or to replace lamps behind it.
I have identified the correct original coin mechanism used in this game
and located one (thanks Roger, Crow River trading)
I have been in contact with a few other owners of this game and
with their help have started the process to recreate and restore
missing and damaged artwork
With the help of those other owners mentioned above work is
proceeding on the art restoration..it's time consuming..
I have completed the bottom scene along with the horses and
riders as I write this.
I have started work to restore the rider ferris wheel assy itself.
includes the riders and horses.
I have chosen to make a complete new set of horses and riders but will
retain the originals (in poor shape)
I am currently mounting the horses and riders on "chip board" , I also
sprayed them with clear coat matte to protect them.
I re-designed they way they were put together.
Dale/Exhibit used a steel bar and riveted the art to it for horses ,
then they just shoved the mounting arm under the bar
This causes the horses to have a bow in the center. I also did not use
rivets which can be seen from the front, instead made custom brackets
and glued them to the chipboard. There are rivets (unseen) on the new
revised mounting brackets, this to increase the thickness of the arm
ends, this to allow space for the mounting
New art could just glued over the originals if the
mountings were in good shape. Mine art not.
Cutting the chip board out is time consuming to match the
shapes. (I used thicker material than used originally-twice as thick)
Probably should have done more research on chip board densities and
I have the original cardboard for the bottom art but will need to
address the top side, since that art sagged in the middle.
It's interesting that they added a piece to the center of the top art
to reduce the view to the rider ferris wheel.
Not sure if this was an original over sight or it was intentional?
I have my motor fully operational and restored, as I write this.
The motor has been completely disassembled the commutator cleaned , new
brushes installed, and the reduction gearbox
cleaned and re-lubricated.
Here is the change I made to the new set of riders/horses.
I used aluminum, easier to work and doesn't rust like the originals did
Here a restored rider and horse on it's control arm
One of the advantages of doing the mounting this way is I can
the horse to rider for the best look than glue and clamp in place.
This is what I used to punch the rider mounting holes in the chip board
(normally for leather)
They were then glued to a piece of aluminum and holes drilled through
the chip board holes to allow mounting by screws
Chip board doesn't drill well, which is why the punch was used to
create a clean hole.
Here is one of my original horses
The original riders / horses will be saved with the game
Here is a restored "upgraded" rider assy.
The bowing in the center and rivets have been removed for a better look
The riders and horses have been mounted to a material about twice the
thickness and strength of the originals
Here is the horse/rider "Ferris Wheel" ready for installation in
The object on the left is the "Timer Unit" A little misleading as
it controls both the number of shots and the speed of the Ferris Wheel
The large resister on the edge is a 50 watt 100 ohm wire wound
for 25 ohm and 75 ohm connection points.
Of note is when testing it, it was determined that the 75 ohm
connection point was open. This because the contact point and contact
bracket had rust on it..
These 2 points were cleaned. the bracket remounted and set for 75
One additional electronic problem was found
This connection was barely connected when it was made and had since
become lose (It was re-soldered)
Finally the adjustable pins and sockets were cleaned.
On the left shows the gun assy as purchased on the right all
(original paint) removed
Instead of re-painting it I may leave it polished, it looks much more
impressive this way.
The 2 wires that exit the bottom of assy are for the trigger switch,
which in this case needs to be adjusted / cleaned
The arm at the bottom has the spring loaded wipers that make contact
biscuit assy (contact board).
There are no wires needed for the wipers themselves as it uses the
metal of the
assy to compete the other side of the circuit
There is a slight bend on that arm, it will be straightened so
contact springs make perfect contact on the biscuit board.
Not shown is the kicker solenoid, or biscuit contact board which mounts
to the bottom of this
BTW the kicker solenoid uses full AC voltage as does the ticket
mechanism solenoid. All such AC line connections are painted red
to alert the servicing person.
Trigger Switch CR1070C103C3 ME/GE
This is a photo of a real Colt Frontier Six Shooter
Patent drawing for the coin
mechanism used in the Exhibit Supply Dale Six Shooter
Mine is missing the correct coin
mechanism replaced by a push button to start the game. This will be
removed and the correct coin gear restored
A lot of these doors are missing from surviving games as they are not
hinged but are designed with contacts so there is no hard wiring and
they just lift off.
This is the 10 cent United
coin mechanism used
This is the unusual coin switch
used by the united coin mechanism
Notice how the trim piece slot is on angle, it has to be
that way so the coin stays on the ramp to the switch.
These are the
correct type of bulbs for the bottom cabinet area.
re-mounted on cabinet back
This was a surprise, since it didn't appear to be on the wiring
diagram, and my game was not operational when purchased, so I had no
idea it had this.
It turns out. it is on the wiring diagram, but disguised a bit, as I
suspected, it is part of the "kicker" ct. called "kicker delayed
I think the gun shot solenoid is engaged ahead of the kicker solenoid
by a slight delay making the shooting more realistic.
It is located behind a shield that obscures the view of this area when
the player is viewing the game images, by the games mirror.
(see it above showing the clamping of the cabinet, it's the tan cover
in the back)
What is it?, it is what makes the "gun shot" sound. It strikes the
outer cabinet and is pretty loud, I tested it.
Combined with the gun kicker solenoid it completes the effect of
shooting at the target
(Please if your reading this and have
the actual schematic for this game (not cabinet wiring) please contact
(I would be interested in seeing any
one of the 3 Dale Exhibit gun game schematics in this series
More to come
NEWS: I will be offering reproduction "skill" tickets in the near
If you have one of the Dale games that uses these special full hole
and are interested contact me.
The tickets will be on a 1000 pc roll
The holes in these tickets are used to dispense the tickets versus
newer styles that use 1/2 holes on the edge to be read by a sensor
New tickets being
This is the unique ticket mechanism used
Though this game was introduced as a 5c game, not sure it was
actually sold with 5c coin gear.
Most surviving games have 10c coin gear. It appears very early it was
changed to 10c
Mine has 10c coin gear , which is reflected in the left instruction
label. Both labels have been restored.
Here shows some of the bottom restored
art in place.
Replaced mirror, repaired xfmr & relays plus
restored step ups
The arms holding the riders are not seen
when viewed through the glass
The mechanism is obscured from view by the upper artwork , not shown
here. That upper art is barely seen, there is no lighting in that
The art was printed as a banner and then glued to illustration board.
The riders and horses art is mounted to chip board
The art was created from original scans and photographs with additional
help from other collectors. None of the original bottom art scene was
left in my machine except for a few scraps.
This is the "Ferris Wheel" motor assy,
disassembled, then cleaned, lubricated, brushes
replaced .and fnaly re-assembled.
These are the original motor brushes
Here a replacement
found- ST-7F Carbon motor brush.
3/16" x 3/16" x 1 with 1-1/8" spring
(These were long, so the
carbon had to be shortened to about 5/8")
Note: The originals were so worn that
the motor did not run at all, probably why this game was taken out of
Here as purchased
newly created replacment art scene and fully restored "ferris wheel"
Here is the NEW Glass
The new glass has arrived and looks great , more on this later. The
game has all been restored and made
On the sides and back cabinet is metallic copper paint as was
on this one. I have no idea what the color of the front door was, as it
Wheels were also added to the bottom to make moving it easier, the
front ones lock to help keep it in place when operating.
The lighting board holds 28 lamps, 19 #55 and 9 # 51. Except for 2
lamps, normally to replace the lamps in this board the front glass must
This is done by removing the top trim board held with 2 wing nuts in
place. Note: when releasing that top trim the lighting board is just
held in place
by 2 small brackets located on the back of it in the lower corners. Can
the lighting board be removed, yes , but that is not needed to change
The center and top lights are continuously on when the game is plugged
however the top 4, are powered through a flasher
and once it heats
up they will start flashing together. The rest are scoring
lights, and record shot count. They are reset off when a new game
Note: The 2 lower lamps 1000 and 2000 are on slide brackets and can be
changed by removing the front door and lowering the gun cabinet.
THE STORY OF THE FRONT
Before deciding to purchase this game and revive it I knew there was a
big challenge. The front glass.
It was cracked in half. Unless I could find a NOS replacement, which
was unlikely, restoring this game would not be possible.
I did some research to see if there was an alternative to having new
glass silk screened as this would be a very expensive option.
I found BGresto.com, after looking over examples of what Steve
had accomplished in the past on other game glass, and after few email
exhanges I was convinced
this was the correct choice for my restoration of the SixShooter . To
be clear, without BGresto, I would have passed on this game.
Go to BGresto.com for a clear explanation of the process and examples
of the results acheived.
Judge here for yourself.
BEFORE- That crack runs from top to bottom,
glass in 2 pieces
restoration of the art and finally bonded to new glass
Contact BGresto.com if you need a replacement glass for your Exhibit
Supply Six Shooter
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