Midway Manufacturing Co.

Wasn't sure what I'd find when I purchased this.

Why my interest in this game, well probably my favorite arcade game way back was a game called Periscope by Sega
It is a huge submarine game , 4 feet wide and 8 feet long. Not very practical for a home arcade, unless you have a spare room your not using.
Though a popular game at the time, even if you want one, good luck finding one.

Thankfully, Midway took the idea and ran with it, but instead, put the game surface vertical so the game is only 29.5" x 23"
The game uses mirrors and even a 2 way mirror to complete the illusion.


This project  has finally begun. This game has been buried, for 15+ years, it's time has finally come.

This game was put into storage all those  years ago during a move  from NY to Florida , it needs a lot of attention..

First will be the restoration of the cabinet. This includes replacing both doors and the cabinet bottom.

Here you can see a piece of  plywood was added to the bottom of the cabinet to reinforce it by the seller.
Without it the bottom would have fallen apart.

Here I am removing the added bottom plywood along with the original bottom fiber board.
As you can see it pretty much fell apart, except where it was glued to the plywood.
You can also see the condition of the paint on the cabinet, yellowed from cigarette smoke (actually turns a green color)

Here is the condition of the bottom door,  it is swollen and falling apart like the other  non plywood  parts of the cabinet.

This is the  upper door, all the edges of this door are swollen .
On the hinge side, bottom  there is a chunk of it missing.
This is one of the  major challenges, along with removing and replacing the cabinet bottom.

The parts on this door seem to be in remarkably good condition.
There is a  smaller problem with the door, on this game, every part is suppose to be labeled, with information, they are mostly gone, if there with little to no text .
Hoping to find another owner that can take some clear macro photos, so I can reproduce those labels, which seem to have dissolved.
(now have some photos supplied by a few other owners and the promise of scans sometime in the future)

The exterior paint / art will need to be rejuvenated.

This a a photo of the top of the game area, showing the back of the front lighting board , the top of the periscope with contact arm
along with the  periscope position pcb and the speaker over to the right (Utah)
On the left and right, though only one side is seen here are 2 latches that prevent the front art glass from being lifted and removed to gain access to bulbs.
Another thing not shown on the floor below the lighting panel are (2) brackets left and right that secure the  front glasses in place so they can not be lifted.
The center glass is installed below the lift bar on the front.  When that glass is removed it allows lamp replacement.

Again, all of this is in great shape.
Note: a lot of the wiring harness has plugs, the lighting board does not, it is hardwired to the  backdoor board electronics.
Why they did this,, unknown. But it makes the job of transferring parts from an old door to a new one a big challenge.
The periscope must be removed to be able to pass the lighting board out the back.

This is the game surface removed from the cabinet, with the torpedo bar in front of it.
There should be a third ship
(aircraft carrier possibly a fourth?) on the "water" surface
I have the carrier but it was not attached. There is some discoloration on the back of the vinyl surface caused by what appears to be something red
that spilled into the game. That material coated the entire length of the torpedo arm
I don't think it will be fully removable but the game is only lit in black light so I doubt it will be noticeable anyway.
That surface is much like a printed vinyl shower  curtain. However it does glow under black light.
To remove  the ocean assy from the game, you must tilt  the game forward so it can clear the cabinet  back brace.

That torpedo arm holds  17 #55 bulbs..
The bulbs are mounted on 3 galvanized plates, held on the arm by 3 screws. Each bulb can be individually removed from the strip if wanted or
the whole plate removed to access 5 to 6 bulbs at a time.
The arm itself does not need to be removed to replace bulbs.

This is the periscope assy removed from the cabinet.
It is chrome  plated, the bottom was painted silver sometime after it was built, It turns out this is made of plastic
My  intention was to have it re-plated, however the plater I use can not plate plastic.
So, I will have to come up with an acceptable alternative.
Originally I thought it was metal, as a magnet stuck to the surface,  apparently, to the plating alone.
The line you see running around the circumference in the middle was caused by wear from the ball bearings at that spot.
The ball bearings are a tight fit , covered by a plate that  has the stops for the periscope extreme positions  (also protects the 3d front)
Care must be taken removing the scope and replacing it, because of the ball bearings.
To put the scope  back in, I suggest covering the exposed holes in the tube to avoid ball bearings dislodged from the race falling into the scope

There are additional  parts to this assembly not shown

This is the optics assembly that mounts inside the periscope  tube. The leaf switch is the torpedo fire switch  which
mounts inside the right scope handle. The other wiring is for lighting.

While working on  the cabinet , I noticed something I wasn't clear on how it worked.

This is what I was looking at.                                 Here is what it looks like when in the usable condition         Here shown extended like in the 2nd pix

Like this it's now possible to lock the coin box in place.  The left side of the assy is spring steel, the right arm is hinged.  It was pushed back as far as it would go.

Thanks John Robertson of John's Jukes for the answer

This photo shows the center setup for the target  wiper (marked in red)            Here shows the ship target in the setup position (note red mark on chassis)

Here is the scope re-assembled.  It turns out that the top will have to come off to get it back in the cabinet
The plug at the top supplies power to 4 #55 lamps and the connection for the trigger switch.
The  small  opening above the viewer has 2 lamps to illuminate the interior of the scope, the loose wires
connect to a plate that covers that hole and has 2 more lamps to  illuminated the central  cabinet scope picture.

<>The cabinet  is finally at a stage I'm happy with.  The restored coin door is installed here,. The cabinet's art (paint) has been restored.
A new step assy was constructed and installed on the  new bottom cabinet.
It is an exact replica of a Sea Wolf step, which appears to be what Midway used.
A number of these surviving games have this step removed, however it is needed. Not so much for young players,
but for adults, as the assembly raises the cabinet up off the floor, which makes it easier to use the periscope..
The front lighting board is back in the cabinet,  it mounts from the back and is hard wired to the harness.
It can not be removed without first removing the periscope.

Here it's back together, all  glass, mirrors and periscope installed
Shown is the original Marquee, it's not in terrible condition. I did stabilize the flaking.
However I am having a new one made,

This  is the game flyer, note the different front art from examples of the game produced

This is the 1970 ad for the New Sea Devil  Game - Note the altered lower front art


These are the original papers that came with the game, found inside.
Includes the warranty card (never sent),  A sheet detailing the controls on the back door, and  the general instructions for the game (about 50%).
There are 2 additional sheets not shown here. The fold out schematic about 90%, and the schematic covering the sound effects.

Click images below for full size versions.


I now have 100% of the sheet , thanks to another owner of this game
  Thanks Mike H. in N.Y.

II will be posting more  documents in the future.

Sound effects board  I've marked the major part identification

This area of the page was created when the game was purchased years ago
I did some research on WWII subs, and there was a Sea Devil.
Info. on it below.

The ships used can be seen on the archived page below:

Here's Brian Amyotte's Page on the Sea Devil game

I made this topper at the time, and it may  wind up on the  Midway Sea Devil when done

Sub model


This is a Revell model of the WWII "Balao" class submarine
"LionFish SS-298", which is a sister ship (boat) to the "Sea Devil SS-400". I believe this to be the correct class of sub depicted by this game. It's a 21 inch long plastic model and will fit nicely on top of the game. 
This Page will include more photos of the game when I finally can get to as well as photos of the restoration and any repairs that are made. If space permits I will also post documentation on
the game.

This is a photograph of the actual WWII  SS400 SEA DEVIL .
Launched February 28, 1944





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