Jamma Supply being sold on Ebay and Elsewhere
MODEL CP10A HX 10A
(with hidden issue)
They are offered with following
AC input/ Full range
cost, high reliability
efficiency, low working temperature
full load burn-in test
ripple & noise
short circuit/overload/over voltage
output: +5V/10A +12V/5A -5V/1A
current: cold start, 20A at 115V, 40A at 230V
protection: 105%-150% hiccup mode, auto-recovery
protection: 115%-135% rated output voltage
up, rise, hold up time: 800ms, 50ms, 20ms/115VAC
temperature: 0-50 @100%, -10@80%, 60@60%
standards: Correspond to UL1950, EN60950, CB, CE
type: 8P/9.5mm pitch terminal block with cover
All appears to be accurate EXCEPT there is NO -5V/1A
It was never implemented on the current version of this supply
The decision to remove this portion of the power supply was most
likely a cost cutting move.
They have sold a lot of them, and since most boards connected to this
not need the -5V the new owner will never know it's
worse think it's failed at some point and buy another.
Most Jamma boards do not require -5V to function.
However there are some arcade boards that will not function without it.
Below are the details to correct the
omission of the -5v supply voltage so this can be used with any arcade
board it's needed for.
This is the board, solder side removed from the case. The terminal
circled is the -5V Screw post bottom.
As you can see : it is connected to nothing as sold
I've scribed on the board AC,Gnd, +12, +5, and -5 as marked on the
terminal strip label.
Above is what we need to add to the board to restore the missing
I took the source input for the LM7905
from the +12v source before the
Here is where I placed the parts.
I used a small dremel drill bit to place the component holes in
positions that I thought worked best.
This photo shows the placement of the components, including the LM7905
-5V regulator, before change.
I found the regulator was getting
too hot when a game board needed the -5V, in one case it failed.
The regulator needs to be on the heatsink. Either use insulators to
mount it to the heatsink using the hole provided on the right. (best
Or cut the foil at the one
side of the heat sink mounting to isolate it from PCB ground and mount
the regualtor directly to it.
(see dotted line on board bottom).
Mount at hole on right, then wires can extend it's connections to the
If mounted directly insulate the heatsink from the top case, and do not
secure it to the case top with original screws.
Mounting the regulator with insulators, eliminates the need for any
changes in case mounting or cutting PCB
1pc.-2A pwr diode
2pc.-1uf electrolytic (any
1pc.- LM7905 (-5v regulator)
1pc.- wire jumper
1pc- mounting screw & nut (to secure regulator to heatsink
That did it. Now all the posts on
the CP10A provide the voltages as stated on the label!, including